Mouse Traps – Mouse Trap Types

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

There are different varieties of mouse traps on sale in today’s market, from the old-fashioned snap traps to state-of-the-art electronic mouse killers.
The old school snap trap has been around for quite a while now. Normally a bait is put onto a spike on the target area of the trap and then a bar (spring loaded) is fed through the hoop holding the arm of the trap (the dangerous part). As the mouse places its front feet onto the target area to access the bait it sets off the sprung loaded arm to snap down on itself at the back of the neck thus breaking its back and killing it.
One type of humane mouse trap comes in the form of a live-catch trap, these are commonly trip-traps where the mouse accesses the trap to get to the bait. When the mouse reaches a certain point of the device the rear of the trap will raise up allowing the door to close behind him thus trapping the mouse within the trap. If, as lots of people do, you want to release the mouse into the wild again, try to avoid letting it go in your garden, as the probabilities are you will be catching that same mouse againat a later date
Other types of the humane mouse traps on sale are the multi-mouse catch trap and the automatic catch trap. These can catch up to 10 mice and 15 mice (respectively) at a time, all live-catch traps need to be checked at regular intervals and preferably should not be left unchecked for periods longer than 24 hours, so if you are going away for the weekend don’t bother setting your mouse traps, you can always leave the trap permanently open and this will allow the mice to get used to accessing the trap without fear.
The final mouse trap is the electronic mouse killer, this type is placed along the mouse run if possible, mice habitually run along the bottom of walls/skirting boards because they feel more secure being able to see the whole of the room . As the mouse accesses the trap to get at any available bait it triggers the mechanism by putting it’s paws onto metal plates strategically placed within the unit.As the mouse creates a circuit with its feet it receives an electric shock from the metal plates killing it immediately. The unfortunate mouse is then extricated and the unit can be used again.

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Pet Mice-Your Pocket Pet

Posted on February 18, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

Pet mice are a fun pet to have, and you can learn a lot about nature and rodents by having your own pocket pet.

You can enjoy mice, by visiting a pet store or local mouse enthusiast, and learning how to install a home for your new pet.  What better way to learn about the wild mice you may have, than to take in an approved mouse pet?
You will need a cage, that has 4 sturdy sides, preferably made of glass or plexiglass, a wire mesh tightly fitting top, a water bottle, a small dish for mouse chow, and a soft bedding material for the bottom of the cage, to allow your pet to nest and to wick up urine.
The best nesting material is grass hay, and you will need to buy this material as being packaged for pets.  Other necessary items are an exercise wheel, a place to escape any light-like a small mouse house or cubby, and a spot in your home that is temperate between 75-80 consistently.  Mice need humidity to level between 50-55%, or they can be afflicted by a ringtail virus, that will cause gangrene on their tail.
Choose to bring a pet mouse into your home, when you have completed your mouse pest removal process with your univited mice.  This will be necessary, as it will be hard to maintain an uninviting environment for the wild mice population and a safe and appropriate environment for your pet mice.
You will want to choose young mice, and choose two females to begin with.  Your pet store will help you with this choice.
You should also only begin your pet project when you have time to enjoy your new pet, and have a temperature that is very moderate, not too hot, not to cold when you transport your mice.
Temperature can shock mice into a coma if it is too dramatic in either direction.
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Prevention Options

Posted on February 13, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

Here is the most important thought for you to remember: Mice need to be prevented from entering your home.  You can trap the rodent population in your home, but if you leave the door open, so to say, you will always have a rodent pest control problem.

Any crack that they can force their skull through, they can wiggle through.  They can force a fat chubby body through the smallest of cracks, if the environment is temperate, has good humidity levels, always has food, water, and nesting areas, you have an open mouse house.
You should employ the methods of herding your existing mouse population to the area where you are trapping, with an effective electronic trap, and then, follow these methods of preventing new mice from arriving at your home.

Silicon Caulk

Silicon chalk can be your best friend!  If you have a really drafty home, you are welcoming mice by its open crevices and cracks.  Find all openings by attacking one side at a time, looking from the bottom to the top of your home.

Plumbing and Holes

Be sure to have your plumbing access points reviewed and inspected inside your home.   There are wire rings you can buy at any hardware store, that can block pipe fittings in cabinets, bathrooms, and other access points.  Silicon chalk all other areas.

Mint

Mint, spearmint, peppermint are great herbs that rodents hate!  You can plant them on the outside of your home, and grow them inside in decorative pots.  The leaves can then be dried out to form a pest sachet in your mousey habitat.

Cork

Mouse habits will be inclined to chew, and chew and chew.  Give your home’s wood structure a break, and give them some cork.  Go treat yourself to some great wine, and save the corks.  You deserve it!
Then, use the corks as a special treat near the mice nesting areas, and they will eat them eagerly.  Unfortunately, this is not the happiest idea, as you are not trapping the mouse, and when it dies from the obstruction in its belly, the after effects will not be pleasant.
For this reason, this is a great solution for outside of your home.  You soak the corks in bacon, beef or pork fat, slice up the corks, and then leave them in a box or  tuna bowl.   Bon Appetit!
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Mouse Habits and Needs

Posted on February 7, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

Sleeping during the night, you are unaware of the mice in your home, eating, running, jumping, peeing and pooping.  If you change jobs, and end up being up during the night and sleeping during the day, they will adjust to your schedule.  Mice are very capable of adjusting to time schedules, if they find a temperate home.

You can really make a difference by stopping access to food and water.  Place all your food in snap top lid plastic containers.  They can’t get into those devices.

  • Keep your home cool in the winter, less than 65 degrees,  to avoid inviting mice into your habitat.
  • Removing humidity will be good for your home and will make your home less inviting to your local mouse.
  • Sprinkling used cat litter around the outside of your home can be a great deterrent.

Mice do not like loud noises, bright lights, cold temperatures, low humidity, scarce food and water, and little accommodation for nesting.  If you add in these kind of problems for them, you will find them less likely to be able to want to stick around.

Add in one of these measures, and see how your mouse population decides to up and move!

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Organic Homeopathic Options to Catching a Live Mouse

Posted on January 29, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

Some Eviction Ideas!

So, how to get rid of mice really now comes down to learning about your mouse trap. Mouse traps are the key to rodent pest control, and really the best mouse trap, is one that works with a mouse’s sense of curiosity and smell. A very inexpensive trap, is a coffee can, sitting upright, some smelly food like peanut butter on a cracker at the bottom of the can, and a ramp up to the rim of the can. The ramp can be simple cardboard, or any type of metal mesh. This inexpensive ramp system works by allowing the mouse to investigate the smell, and lets them play a bit, as the new fun course is appealing to their sense of fun.

You now have a trapped live mouse. This is ok if you plan to relocate the critter, and can’t begin to kill a mouse. Another way to trap a live mouse, is to purchase a hav-a-hart mouse trap, and this will trap one mouse at a time. It works by a platform that is sensitive to weight, bait, and some patience.

If you are willing to remove your mice, one mouse at a time, these great traps can do that to produce a live mouse. However, if you have rodent problems that are in the large quantities of an infestation, you need to try to remove the mice, by some good effective means that cause your home to be inhospitable to your mouse population.

Bright lights are a great way to cause distress in mice. If the weather is temperate outside, and it is dark, they will try to mouse outside. You can place some tempting treats outside, and alongside lighting cabinets, kitchen, and other areas of mouse habitation, you can remove them in a matter of days.

Ammonia is a deterrent, and mice hate the smell. It will cause them much olfactory distress, and can be very effective. The method is to place a rag soaked in ammonia, and then leave the rag in a can or plastic container. You may not like the result however! It is a good solution for outside areas, as ammonia is really nasty.

Using some essential oils can be very effective to driving out miss daisy mouse. Soak a cotton rag with methol or eucalyptol, and leave these in a can, in the areas that they may be located, and they will leave that area. Be sure to leave the rags in every corner, and make sure you can smell the oils fragrance.

Sound is the other tool in your toolbelt for removing your mouse population. You should try to find some great ultrasonic transmitters, as mice have a keen ultrasonic sound reception. They can hear these devices, and you cannot. It will drive your mice crazy! Place them at varying areas of your home, to drive them toward your hav-a-hart trap, or coffee can trap.

If you are trapping live animals, and relocating them, be aware, they will die within a day if not relocated. They cannot go without water, cooling and heating nesting tools, and need that food of course. You will have to drive them to a location of 2 miles or more, and release them in a field or other public area. If all this interaction with your live mouse is not working for you, a killing trap is your solution.

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The Best Mouse Trap Ever!

Posted on January 28, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

An electronic mouse trap will be your best solution. If you have acted on adding light, essential oils, and some ultrasonic noise to your round-up technique, and can’t be bothered with live mice and their relocation, check out this option. An electronic mouse trap can be a great option to solve your mouse problems. The mouse is curious about the trap, smells the bait, enters the trap, is contained, and then is effectively zapped with an electric current from the batteries in the unit. Be sure to use fresh batteries, as you do not want to trap a mouse, and then have to add new batteries to finish the job. This is a humane way to kill a mouse, as it is very quick and painless. The best traps, capture, zap, and dispose the mouse into another area, for a quick reset. They can catch many mice in one night! The trap will indicate that you have a mouse with a light on the top, and then you can reset it, dispose of the dead rodent, and repeat. No driving, evil glances from distant neighbors about releasing rodent into their area, and a effective rodent control solution.

There are traps as well, that have a repeating mechanism, is operated by a spring. It can catch mice over and over, as long as the bait is available. You wind these devices up, and they can be over wound, creating a hazard for this live mouse trap. However, the mechanism is not as effective as the electronic mechanism, and will be a messy experience for you as exterminator.

You should try some snap traps too, as they are easy to set up, and sometimes the mouse you can’t catch, will be so curious to this type of trap, and it will be a dead mouse result. This trap is metal, can be cleaned easily and reused, and they are more effective than the age old wood snap trap. A snap trap that has a killing bar on it, is a better snap trap, and it is safer around pets and kids. They are a quick-kill trap, and you simply load the bait and lift the bar and mouse trap is set!

Here is the one I recommend.  It is a great way to trap and humanely kill over 10 mice a night.  Using this device will allow you to place it where you have any kind of mouse activity, not have to set and bait traps with a plan, as the device is so very tantalizing to the curious mouse.  You simply bait it, and let it do its work.  The great thing about this electronic trap, is it kills and hides the dead mouse from view, until you are ready to dispose of them.  Even better, the Victor Electronic Multi-Kill has a digital readout, where you can see (on the side of the device), that you have dead mice that are ready for disposal.

If you have mice running during the day, right in front of you, save money, and buy two, as you will need the three you get for the cost of one exterminator visit.

VictorPest.com Electronic Traps - Shop Now!

Further, referencing the Disclaimer Page on MeetYourMouse.com, each post on this blog is built to discuss new pest control options, and the available products that are offered at various affiliate sites.All discussion, copyright, and posts are a process to inform the consumer of the best options for their rodent problem, and to allow the authors and creators of MeetYourMouse.com the ability to profit from such referred sales.No Products were received for free for any posts on this blog. The author does in fact receive commissions, but only if you do decide to buy from any of the links from this blog. It is important to know, many of these items have been reviewed by others, but the opinions are theirs, and not necessary those of the author.If you have any questions, I would love to hear from you!

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Organic Options: Humane Solutions to Pest Removal

Posted on January 27, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

There are traps that you should try to avoid-they are not going to solve your problem, and will be only a temporary stop along your way to rodent pest control.

Many people think a small dog or cat would be a great solution. You can count on them to be interested in your mouse, will patiently wait where they saw them last, but after the first mouse, they are not going to continue to kill mice, especially if you feed them all that great cat and dog food. They can eventually become very indifferent to the situation, and will be glad to play with the rodent, but not finish the task, as well, they can leave the damaged mouse out for you, and it may be in a place you would not wish. As well, a pet should not be purchased just for mouse control. They are much more than a best mouse trap.

Snap traps can be a ineffective solution, as the mice will keep away from them, figure out to remove the bait without snapping the trap, and snap the trap to remove the bait. You can easily try this method, but leave the trap baited, unset for at least a week. Then, after they have tasted your bait, set your trap. This method will only catch a few, and as the mourners walk by the remains of their pal, you can bet, that won’t be working for them.

  • Glue Traps are effective, but cruel.  Mice will be stuck, try to rip off their skin to escape.
  • Poison is a really bad option as the mouse will die and then decompose in your home to smell for weeks.  You will have flies, smell and eventually a dead animal in your rafters forever.
  • Poison will kill other animals that feed on mice, so if you use poison, your pet may be killed as well.
  • The Best Trap is an effective Mouse Control Plan, with Understanding on How Mice think.  Keep reading!
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Why Mice Are Health Risks

Posted on January 24, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson
Wild mice are a hazard to your health.  You can develop allergies to their dander, as like cats, they have an allergenic component to their saliva that is very reactive to some humans.   As they groom themselves, they lick their fur, and the flaky skin leaves their body, and this turns into dusty dander.  This allergy can really manifest itself into itchy, red skin and eyes.  You will not be able to overcome these symptoms until the rodent population is removed.
Mice carry a wide variety of disease.  They are usually full of fleas, which can be passed onto your pets and your home.  If you have mice infestation, you have flea infestation.  Some diseases that can be passed onto you would be Weils’s Disease, Yersinosis, Q-Fever, leptospirosis and samonella poisoning.  They have a crude way of peeing and pooping in your food areas, and will create much territory spraying in your areas to mark their boundaries to other mice.  In the past, some mice were infected with hantavirus, that can be fatal to humans.   Human babies can be biten by mice, as they are attracted to the quiet, soft, warm area that baby sleeps in, and as they smell the baby, milk on the cheek or chin can bring on a bite.
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Mice at Night

Posted on January 21, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

Mice are nocturnal animals, live in packs, and enjoy a challenge to appeal to their sense of curiosity and smell.   They have great hearing, have poor eyesight, and love to eat almost anything.  You can feed a mouse sugary stuff, and they will develop diabetes.

Knowing all of this, you can expect to be very capable of catching, relocating or killing your herd of mice.  The control of your pest population is a very patient practice, and you should expect to employ many solutions before you are rid of the black long poops.

Note: if you have longer black poops than 1/8″ of an inch, you may have a rat population.  Mice and rats do not get along, and rats will kill mice.

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What do Mice Eat

Posted on January 20, 2011 by Cheryl Hanson

  • Mice like all kinds of food, so keep your stashes in plastic snap containers
  • Light your home at all hours if you can bear it-corners too.
  • Mice require just as much water as food.  Removing food and water goes along way to mouse exodus.
  • Mice are intelligent, and the only advantage over them is their bad eyesight.
  • Mice can be dangerous to your health from bacteria to virus risks.
  • Exterminators are not magic experts: they will require the same time and process as an effective trapping solution.
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